Van Cleef & Arpels reveals beautiful new Perlée creations

Van Cleef & Arpels has revealing new Perlée creations that showcase the emblematic golden bead motif. In yellow, rose or white gold – and combined with precious or ornamental stones, mother-of-pearl or coral – they lend their rounded forms and shimmering reflections to a variety of jewelry and watchmaking pieces with graphic, luminous silhouettes.

Nov 9, 2023

In keeping with the Perlée collection’s cheerful style, five new rings adorned with golden beads give pride of place to a dazzling palette of ornamental stones. With their rounded shapes, these creations reinterpret the aesthetic of the Philippine rings created by the Maison in 1968. The new pieces bring a fresh breath of creativity to the collection, imbuing it with a sunny feel to suit the oncoming summer.

At the center of a three-dimensional setting, each jewel showcases a stone carefully selected for its vibrant color and generous dimensions. They range from the brilliant black of onyx and the elegantly striated deep green of malachite to – available in smaller quantities due to their rarity – the lightly glittering blue of lapis lazuli, azure turquoise and the orangey-red hue of coral; all these shades combine with yellow gold to create luminous pieces.

Two rows of delicate golden beads fan out on either side of the gem, along with a line of round diamonds. By heightening the sheen of the precious metal, the mirror polishing technique endows the creations with interplays of reflections and contrasts.

The Perlée couleurs collection is also enriched by two sets: made up of a bracelet and a pendant, they reveal new harmonies of materials. Revisiting a style launched in 2017, the bracelets bring together a dome in yellow gold set with diamonds, and a cabochon in lapis lazuli or coral. This precious encounter is presented on an open bangle, composed of a multitude of golden beads, which unfurl like a shimmering cascade around the wrist. On the pendants, the lapis lazuli and coral cabochons are elegantly framed by a border of golden beads, emphasizing their rounded lines.

For the first time since its launch in 2008, the Perlée collection invites colored precious stones onto three sparkling new rings. Inspired by the Caroline rings and bracelets created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the late 1970s, this aesthetic sets up a dialogue between the shimmer of the emblematic spheres, and the colorful overtones of rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Rigorously selected by the Maison’s expert gemologists, carmine rubies respond to the tender nuances of rose gold, while intense blue sapphires and emeralds of luminous green harmonise with the warm glow of yellow gold.

In line with the playful spirit of the collection, these pieces are characterised by their asymmetric design and interplays of light and shape. On each of them, five rows of golden beads wrap themselves around the finger – the widest at the summit of the ring, with the thinnest below – on either side of an oblique band of precious stones, which catches the eye. The gems are held in place by polished gold nails positioned between the stones.

Used in the collection for the first time, this technique calls for great dexterity from the stone-setter, especially when working with delicate materials like emeralds. To intensify the ring’s shimmer, the mount has been pierced with honeycomb openwork, and the entire piece intricately polished.