Bespoke from beginning to end

Autolabs provides you with a step by step guide to washing your car.

Feb 1, 2018

Dirt particles may be microscopic and seem insignificant, but In essence, each of them is just a smaller, broken down piece of larger stone, rock…

Basically a hard, sharp edged, material that will scratch your clear coat if it isn’t managed properly during the wash phase.

1: START WITH THE WHEELS 

Commonly people make the mistake of washing their wheels at the end of their wash but the wheels are generally the dirtiest and most contaminated part of the car, so always start here instead of splashing all those pollutants across your freshly washed paint.  

The brake dust we see on wheels is effectively fine metal particles, so removing it properly and carefully is important so we avoid scratching surrounding paint surfaces. A dedicated Iron Fallout Remover dissolves these harsh contaminants, allowing them to be safely removed with minimal friction.  

Have dedicated tools for the wheels and them alone. A wheel bucket, wheel brushes etc will help eliminate the potential of cross contamination and smearing brake deposits and other contaminants across our paint surfaces. 

 

2: RINSE LAYER BY LAYER 

Now just because you could, dont be tempted to simply blast all the dirt off with your pressure washer. Getting straight on and too close to the paint with too much pressure will only force and embed that dirt directly into your paint, so remember this rinse is just the very first step in removing the dirt on your vehicle.   

Removing dirt properly should be seen as a process, a removal of build-up, layer by layer. The point of a pre-rinse is to first remove the excess or top surface of dirt sitting on your car. The second is help soften the dirt underneath and it’s bond with you paint.  

When rinsing, be thorough. Removing as much of that initial dirt now makes things easier later on and also reduces the amount of dirt we have to manage throughout the process. Concentrate on the lower and rear areas of the vehicle as they usually have the highest concentration of built up dirt. 

 

3: MINIMISE THE CONTACT 

 At some point in the wash process we will pick up a wash mitt, make contact with our vehicle and glide it over our paint surface. Sitting in between those two surfaces is dirt and therefore the potential for damage, so minimising how much dirt there is before we even pick up a mitt is critical.  

An addition to the rinse step is snow foam. It’s another step to reduce the amount of dirt we have to manage later on when contact and human force enter the wash cycle.  

Snow foam is a mix of air, water and a soap solution that covers the paint in a thick layer of foam (via a snow foam lance) to help soften, lift and break down the layer of built up dirt bonded to your paint. The lubricated bed of foam then provides a safe layer to carry that dirt away without friction with your paint surface.  

Less contaminants on your vehicle, in your wash bucket and in your wash mitt for the next step all add up to a cleaner and safer wash process for when we begin to forcibly remove dirt. 

THE THREE BUCKET SYSTEM 

This is where the multi bucket system comes in. One bucket is your typical wash solution, the other is just water, and this buckets sole purpose is to rinse and collect all the dirt we’ve taken off your vehicle keeping the wash solution as clean, fresh and as free from dirt as possible.  

After every pass, we dip our dirty mitt into the rinse bucket, agitate to rinse and remove all the collected dirt. We then, in theory, have a fresh clean mitt to dip back into our fresh clean wash bucket before moving to the next panel. We have reduced the potential of collected dirt heading straight back onto your car‘s panels.  

Finally, have a third bucket that is only ever used for the wheels. We don‘t want collected brake deposits in any wash cycle that could end up on our paint.