Hawkesby on Waiheke

I first came to Waiheke Island as captain of the Ellerslie Primary School rugby team. We won 12 — 6 against Waiheke Primary at Blackpool.  It was August 1960. 

I don’t remember the game, but there was an unforgettable after-match hangi.  Laughing happy-go-lucky welcoming locals treated us like royalty and, after a feast of fish, lamb and pork, they put on a concert in the old school hall.  We responded with a rousing version of ‘My Old Man’s A Dustman’ and everyone held hands for the finale: ’She’ll be Coming Round The Mountain When She Comes’. 

We came to live on the island 40 years later in 2000 and have loved every minute of the last twenty years. 

Waiheke is an enchantingly restful, impossibly beautiful place where weeping 200-year-old Pohutukawas sweep the white sand that leads to pristine aqua coloured sea. Idyllic playground, artists retreat, bohemian lifestyle or summer escape. Waiheke doesn’t march to the beat of a different drum — it dances. 

The island has seductive charm, eccentric character and liberating alternative attitude and outlook. The locals are as colourful and diverse as the jaw dropping views. Potters, poets, playwrights, carvers, drummers, guitarists, accappella choirs, singer-songwriters, D.J.’s, rappers and all manner of artists. Oh, and thanks to many young South Americans (mainly Argentinian and Brazilians), our local soccer team has been catapulted into Auckland championship contention. 

We rejoice in the fact there are no malls, no fast food franchise outlets or any of the myriad branded superstores you can find in any major city on the planet. 

It’s true that with inevitable gentrification come pockets of wealth, but not the sort that glories in exhibitionism. Those that choose to live or holiday here ‘get it’. They are here for the right reasons and while they welcome fine coffee, wine and cuisine — they eschew high rises, vulgar behaviour and masses of bling. 

They enjoy swapping smart loafers for gumboots and tailored suits for Swanndri and t shirts and relaxing, getting down and dirty. They’ll work the soil, paint the dinghy, clean up the beaches, buy some local art and craft and frequent the legendary wineries. 

The obvious beauty, simplicity, gentleness and remarkable diversity of the island is inspirational and healing. It’s not a place for the haughty, pretentious or those with a sense of entitlement.   

In many ways, Waiheke reflects a New Zealand of the past and is a beacon for the future. We locals understand our place and are aware of our unique island history. We are determined to protect our special place in the islands of the Hauraki Gulf and work to continue to be an uplifting, exciting interactive haven for recreation, education and reflection. 

Waiheke is already a magnet and a melting pot for people of different ethnicities, cultures and countries. 

“Alas”, laments one local, a former model of the 1960’s, “Waiheke has become the world’s worst secret”. Borrowing from Gertrude Stein, she adds, “It’s Paradise — if you can stand it.” 

Ms Baragwanath obviously can. She’s been living quietly here since 1994 and describes her Waiheke retreat as “living on an island of calm in a sea of chaos.” 

No one will ever turn this place into something it’s not. Waihekians enjoy and learn to understand very quickly that island life speaks to the heart and spirit as well as the eye. Being small and beautiful we easily connect to the sky, earth and sea. We don’t define the island; the island defines us. One of the first signs you’ll see upon arriving says, “Slow Down — You’re already here.” 

If you ever build on Waiheke and you want to know why your plumber, electrician or chippie has done a no-show, you can only assume it’s fair weather and a good tide.  When the fish are biting, the tools are down. Sorry, but your job can wait until tomorrow. Don’t angst, be happy: it’s the island way. 

Your job will get finished… when the boat comes in. 

If you come to live here, you need to adjust to a place that has no main street parking meters. You’ll look in vain for a traffic light.  
 
On Waiheke you can have the sun on your face, the ocean breeze at your back, and the night sky is never brighter nor more dazzling than above this pollution-free island. 
 
Waiheke is uncomplicated, unassuming and undeniably seductive. It’s truly magnificent for all the right reasons. Magical. Mercurial. Mysterious. 

Okay, so I’m biased. Well… who wouldn’t be? 

Words by John Hawkesby 

Photos by Peter Rees